A culinary journey through southern Italy

Southern Italy, with its sun-soaked landscapes and azure coastlines, offers more than just stunning views. It is a treasure trove of culinary traditions, where every dish tells a story of ancient civilizations, local ingenuity, and time-honored recipes. For food history buffs, this region is an immersive experience, blending gastronomy with culture and history. From the birthplace of pizza to ancient olive groves, here’s your guide to the must-visit culinary hotspots in Southern Italy.

Naples: The birthplace of pizza

No culinary journey to Southern Italy is complete without a visit to Naples, the city that gave the world pizza. This beloved dish has its roots in the 18th century, when humble flatbreads were topped with tomato sauce and sold as affordable street food. In 1889, the classic pizza margherita was created in honor of Queen Margherita, featuring tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil to represent the Italian flag.

While in Naples, visit Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba, often cited as the world’s first pizzeria, or stop by Da Michele, famous for its minimalist yet perfect margherita and marinara pizzas. Beyond pizza, Naples offers other culinary delights, such as sfogliatella (a flaky pastry filled with ricotta) and limoncello, made from Amalfi Coast lemons. Stroll through the Spaccanapoli, the narrow street at the heart of Naples, to soak in the vibrant food culture and bustling markets.

Where to eat:

Pizzeria di Matteo: A favorite among locals for its fried pizza and classic margherita. Located in the heart of the historical center, it’s a no-frills spot packed with flavor.

La Figlia del Presidente: Known for its perfectly charred crusts and balanced toppings, this family-run pizzeria is a hidden gem.

Antica Friggitoria Masardona: Famous for its fried pizza, this small, family-run shop near the train station offers a true taste of Neapolitan street food.

What to try: Beyond pizza, indulge in pasta e patate (pasta with potatoes and cheese), a classic comfort dish served in small trattorias.

Local tip: Head to Quartieri Spagnoli for a more authentic Neapolitan street food experience, where you can try fried snacks like cuoppo di mare (paper cones of fried seafood) while mingling with locals.

Amalfi coast: Lemons and liqueurs

The Amalfi Coast is famous for its dramatic cliffs, colorful villages, and fragrant lemons, which play a starring role in the region’s culinary history. These oversized citrus fruits, known as sfusato amalfitano, have been cultivated here for centuries and are protected under PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) status.

Take a tour of a traditional lemon grove in Minori or Ravello, where you’ll learn about farming techniques passed down through generations. Afterward, visit a local producer to taste limoncello, the iconic liqueur made by steeping lemon peels in alcohol. Pair it with delizie al limone, a lemon sponge cake filled with lemon cream, for the ultimate Amalfi experience.

Where to eat:

A Paranza (Atrani): Tucked away in the tiny village of Atrani, this seafood restaurant is a favorite among locals. Try the spaghetti with clams or lemon risotto.

Trattoria Da Gemma (Amalfi): Known for its cozy atmosphere and traditional recipes, this trattoria serves up excellent scialatielli ai frutti di mare (a local handmade pasta with seafood).

Bacco (Furore): Located in the hills above Amalfi, this hidden spot offers stunning views and a menu of hearty, traditional dishes like rabbit alla cacciatora.

What to try: Totani e patate (squid with potatoes) is a local specialty often found in small coastal villages.

Local tip: Visit in the morning to tour lemon groves before the heat of the day sets in. Stop by Pasticceria Sal De Riso in Minori for award-winning lemon desserts and enjoy them on their terrace overlooking the sea.


Puglia: The land of olive oil and rustic trattorias

Puglia, the heel of Italy’s boot, is known as the “olive oil capital” of the country, producing nearly 40% of Italy’s olive oil. The region is home to ancient olive groves, some of which date back over a thousand years. These groves are not only a testament to the region’s agricultural history but also an integral part of its identity.

Visit Ostuni or Andria to explore historical olive oil mills, where you can see traditional stone presses and learn about the cold-pressing process. Many mills offer tastings where you can sample different types of olive oil, paired with crusty bread and local cheeses. While in Puglia, indulge in the region’s signature dishes like orecchiette con cime di rapa (pasta with turnip greens) and taralli (crunchy breadsticks).

Where to eat:

Il Fienile (Ostuni): Located in the countryside, this agriturismo serves farm-to-table dishes like grilled lamb chops and fresh vegetables.

Trattoria La Cucina di Mamma Elvira (Lecce): Known for its homestyle cooking, this trattoria serves local specialties like ciceri e tria (pasta with chickpeas).

Osteria del Tempo Perso (Ostuni): Set in a historic cave, this hidden gem is perfect for dishes like orecchiette con cime di rapa and fava bean purée.

What to try: Don’t miss panzerotti (fried dough stuffed with cheese and tomato) or braciole (meat rolls cooked in tomato sauce).

Local tip: Visit Andria for burrata, a fresh cheese made from mozzarella and cream, at small dairies like Caseificio Olanda.


Sicily: A Fusion of Flavors and Hidden Street Food

Sicily’s culinary history is a mosaic of influences from its Greek, Arab, Norman, and Spanish past. Each civilization has left its mark on the island’s dishes, creating a unique blend of flavors. One of Sicily’s most iconic street foods, arancini, is thought to have originated during the Arab rule in the 10th century. These golden rice balls, stuffed with ragù, peas, and cheese, are a must-try for food lovers.

The Vucciria Market in Palermo is a vibrant place to explore the island’s street food scene, offering everything from pane e panelle (chickpea fritters) to sfincione (a Sicilian-style pizza). For dessert, try cannoli and cassata, both of which reflect Sicily’s love for ricotta and sugar.

Where to eat:

Antica Focacceria San Francesco (Palermo): A local institution known for panelle (chickpea fritters) and arancini.

Trattoria da Nino (Taormina): A family-run spot that’s beloved for its fresh seafood pasta and local wines.

Osteria Antica Marina (Catania): Located near the fish market, this osteria is perfect for dishes like pasta alla norma and grilled swordfish.

What to try: Seek out pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines) and caponata (a sweet and sour eggplant dish).

Local tip: For dessert, visit small pasticcerias like Pasticceria Cappello in Palermo for a slice of their famous chocolate cake or cassata siciliana.

Calabria: Spices and Tradition

Calabria, located at the toe of Italy’s boot, is famous for its bold flavors and use of spices, particularly peperoncino (chili pepper). This fiery ingredient is central to many Calabrian dishes, from nduja (a spreadable spicy sausage) to pasta arrabbiata. The region’s mountainous terrain and fertile valleys have shaped its cuisine, which remains deeply rooted in tradition.

Visit Tropea, known for its sweet red onions, which are celebrated annually during the Tropea Onion Festival. These onions are used in everything from salads to jams and pair beautifully with Calabria’s robust wines. Explore Cosenza for a mix of culinary and cultural experiences, including historic churches and bustling food markets.

Where to eat:

Ristorante Vecchio Borgo (Tropea): Known for dishes featuring Tropea onions, like onion tart or onion-stuffed calamari.

Trattoria U Scaru (Scilla): A hidden gem by the sea, offering fresh swordfish dishes like pesce spada alla ghiotta.

Agriturismo Le Colline del Gelso (Cosenza): A charming agriturismo serving farm-fresh dishes like fileja con nduja (Calabrian pasta with spicy sausage).

What to try: Don’t miss soppressata (a spicy cured sausage) or zeppole di Natale (Calabrian Christmas doughnuts).

Local tip: Visit local markets like Mercato di Cosenza to taste fresh, spicy nduja or homemade pecorino.

Southern Italy’s hidden food gems offer a taste of authentic culture, untouched by mass tourism. By venturing off the beaten path and embracing the local way of life, you’ll discover the heart and soul of Italy’s culinary traditions. Whether you’re savoring burrata in Puglia, indulging in arancini in Sicily, or sipping limoncello on the Amalfi Coast, these lesser-known spots will leave you with unforgettable memories and a deeper appreciation for Southern Italy’s rich food history.